Horto, Pelion, Greece - Horton, Pilion, Greece

Horto, my base in Pelion, stretches out lazily before the calm, deep-blue waters of the Pagasetic Gulf, amidst dense, century-old olive groves. It is conveniently located between two nodal points, Argalasti and Lafkos, and is an ideal starting point for daily expeditions, as most destinations in southern Pelion are within 20 - 30 minutes' drive.

The stream, the village's most striking feature, conveys cold mountain-air, thereby acting as a natural air-conditioning system. Its banks are lined with plane trees, oleanders and a wide variety of

hydrophytes. If you decide to walk upstream, you're bound to wind up at a place know as "desi", a dam-like structure that retains water and subsequently conveys it to Horto, via two concrete ditches, for irrigation purposes. In times past, a couple of mills harnessed the water's power to grind cereals, but all that remains of them now are a few stone, ivy-clad walls. Damselflies and dragonflies abound the area, which is densely forested. They like to rest on leaves spotlighted by the few sunrays that manage to penetrate the thick canopy of leaves. If you're lucky, you may also run into fresh-water crabs and terrapins.

There are numerous beaches around Horto, with crystal clear waters. Most are within walking distance and quite a few are only accessible by boat or on foot. So if you decide to take a 15 - 20 minute's walk, you're sure to find a secluded beach all to yourself, even in high summer. It should be noted that Horto boasts a Blue Flag, denoting high quality bathing water (learn more about the Blue Flag campaign).

Those who enjoy hiking are sure to find a number of interesting mule paths and cobbled roads, locally known as "kalderimia", in the vicinity of Horto. The best time of year for hiking is spring.

A few tourist guides, I am told, mention interesting ruins in Horto. I hate to disappoint those with a passion for archeology, but the ruins - the foundations of a Byzantine church - have now been backfilled, as they were literally in the middle of the road from Horto to Milina, completely obstructing one lane, thereby posing a threat to motorists.

On the other hand, those with an interest in paleontology will be thrilled to learn that marine fossils are quite common on the surrounding hills.

Horto is home to the "Aggelinis Foundation", a non-profit institution that organizes various cultural events, such as theater plays, concerts, lectures, etc. The Foundation also runs a small museum, housing a variety of old tools, books and relics.

Like most villages in southern Pelion, Horto lacks the intense nightlife found on the Greek isles. However, I'm sure that nature lovers, especially those willing to explore around a little, will love it. Horto is located some 49 km (30.5 miles) from Volos and 6.5 km (4.0 miles) from Argalasti.

There are three mini markets in Horto, which should provide all the essential comestibles. In fact, the one near the bus station sells all sorts of delicious pies and bread.

While in Horto, you must make a point of visiting "Casablanca". It's located just outside the village, some 100m (300ft) off the main road to Argalasti. Marie-France, the joint's manager and owner, is a very nice, hospitable person, who speaks several languages fluently. She produces the meanest crepes and pastries on the Pelion peninsula. Very fattening, but extremely delicious.

All the other restaurants and tavernas are located on the waterfront. "Petrino", the Greek word for "made of stone", is the first restaurant you will run into when you hit Horto's beach. It is my personal choice for

"tsipoura", as the variety of mezedes, or appetizers, that accompany the spirits is virtually endless. And the food isn't all that bad either.

"Martha's" is located on the same beach, to the far right facing the water. Food is good there too and, in addition, Martha serves some nice long drinks and a variety of mean desserts.

A new restaurant, "Evohia", has recently opened on the left side of the beach, facing the water, across the stream outlet. It looks great, but I have not, as yet, eaten there. A few meters from the restaurant, you'll find a grill, "Atessis", literally on the waterfront.

Another great taverna, "Perigiali", meaning beach, is located on a beautiful, nearby cove. It's built right on the waterfront and the food is really good. You can get there either on foot or by car. If you pick the first alternative, head southeast towards the two characteristic houses on the rock (far left, facing the sea), walk around them and follow the hidden path. If you decide to drive, take the road to Milina, until you see a concrete road to your right. It's signposted, so it's easy to find, but it's also very steep, so beware.

Finally, you can go for a swim, a drink and some good food at the "Olive Bay", a nice, quiet cove a few hundred meters outside Horto, on the road to Milina. The sunset there is a sight to behold!

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Accommodation

There are lots of furnished studios and rooms to let, however if you plan to visit Horto in high summer, you had better make arrangements in advance.

If you do decide to visit Horto, consider staying at "Karidies", or "Walnut Trees" in English. The lodging is located in a quiet olive grove, surrounded by fruit trees, flower- and vegetable gardens, approximately 100 m (110 yd) from the sea. Of course, I'm a little partial, inasmuch as the people who run the place, John (Yiannis) and Toula, are my wife's relatives, however I really do believe that they offer an excellent money for value deal. Best (or worst, depending on your point of view) part is that I live right next door and can offer you a few guided hikes in the vicinity and more than a few beers.

There are also a couple of hotels in Horto, Leda and Diplomats, but they've been rented out to British tour operators, so, if you want to stay there, you'll have to book through them.

Camping

There's a camping site, named "Argo", between Horto and Argalasti. I've walked there a couple of times from Horto, by way of narrow trail that follows the coastline, and enjoyed a few cold beers at the site's restaurant. I won't rate the infrastructure, as I lack the necessary experience, but I will tell you that the setting is ideal. The site occupies a well-kept olive grove and has access to two of the best beaches in the vicinity.

Directions

Getting to Horto is really simple. From Volos, drive to Argalasti and then follow the road to Trikeri. Horto is the first village you'll run into, when you reach the foot of the mountain.

The road, albeit somewhat winding, is paved all the way down to the village. On your way to Horto, you'll drive through an endless array of century-old olive groves and enjoy a fantastic view of the Pagasetic Gulf.

To get a better understanding of the area, check out the associated map.

Acknowledgments

I would like to thank my childhood friend Constantine Constantinidis, a guy with a very constant name, but an equally variable character, for providing the "Sunset in Horto" photo, the first image that appears when you open this page.