Pelion, Greece - Theotokos, Pilion, Greece

I first learned about Theotokos from an article in "Georama," a monthly magazine, which is, in a sense, the Greek equivalent of National Geographic. To tell you the truth, I was rather annoyed. Fancy a place like that, just a few miles away from your home base, without your knowing!

Anyway, having read the article, I was determined to visit Theotokos during my next trip to Pelion. And, frankly, I wasn't disappointed. Ever since, I have been visiting the place every year, to catch some of its aura.

Rather than bore you with my description, I've translated part of the article written by Alexander Tsakos, an archaeologist, who is, de facto, slightly more qualified than me...

For those of you who don't mind my babbling, there's a short paragraph at the end of the page, with some additional info, regarding the locale and my archaeological finds.

You can also download a very interesting article by Wace and Droop, which was published in B.S.A. vol. XIII (1906-7), entitled "Excavations at Theotokou, Thessaly". To do so, right-click here, pick "Save target as..." and save the document to your hard disk. The associated file is in Portable Document Format (.pdf), so you'll need Adobe® Reader® to open it. If you don't have it installed on your computer, you can download it free of charge here. By the way, the article and pictures of the tessellated floor were sent to me by Georgios Gropetis, a compatriot currently residing in Paris, France, whom I would like to thank very much for his assistance.

Top

Article by A.Tsakos, Archaeologist

The following is, by no means, an exact translation. In fact, it is a rather loose citation of the article's main points, which I found interesting. The original piece of writing is entitled "Forgotten Greek Treasures: Ancient Sepias" and appeared in the September - October 2002 issue of "Georama".

"Arhaeological research, in southeastern Magnesia, has yielded disproportionate results, compared to the rest of Thessaly. While prehistoric traces abound the plains of Thessaly and the coasts of the Pagasetic Gulf, marking the dawn of civilization, human presence - during the stone age - could not be established with certainty in the vicinity of Pelion's rugged Aegean shores.

However, lack of prehistoric human habitation, in this part of Thessaly, should be considered highly improbable. Besides, one should take into account that prior to the Neolithic Era, Magnesia was connected with both Euboea and the very active - during that period - Northern Sporades.

The beaches that liven up the eastern coasts of Pelion, have been formed by beautiful torrents, which cut through the rocky flesh of the mountain and transport boulders to the Aegean sea, depriving the earth of its substance.

Theotokos unfolds slightly north of Thessaly's southeastern edge, at the strait currently separating Magnesia from Skiathos. A small stone church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, marks the marriage of land and sea, "supervising" the spot where two small streams discharge into the ocean.

At the beginning of the past century, a large Paleochristian basilica, with tessellated floors and long, slender pillars of marble, was excavated just west of the church.

It was the religious center of a Byzantine settlement, which, apparently, had been built on the steep slopes of the adjacent hill. According to archaeologists, near the spot occupied by a Paleochristian basilica, there is, quite frequently, the nucleus of a Late Antiquity settlement.

Not surprisingly, ancient architectural elements (walls, Doric pillars, triglyphs and metopes), as well as graves of the Geometric Era, were discovered nearby. New excavations, currently under way, continue to unveil new archaeological finds.

It would be interesting to systematically explore the surrounding hills, which are overgrown with plush vegetation and could be hiding a lot of surprises, keeping in mind that geological activity is very intense here and, at the same time, exhilaratingly visible.

This is a cosmological crossroad, where gods from two different words meet, making nature tune in to the vibrations of their relationship.

The two hills that enclose the small gulf have been eroded by the waves, which reach this spot from Dardanelles, violent and unabated. The ancients called the wind that sweeps these shores "Hellesponteia" and Herodotus ("The Persian Wars", Book 7) held it responsible for the destruction of Xerxes' fleet. The disaster happened near cape Sepias, where there was a settlement by the same name, which was subject to the city of Demetrias, during the Classical period.

Scientists have not yet agreed as to whether Sepias is the narrow passage between Skiathos and Pelion, nor have they identified any cities on Pelion's eastern shores, mentioned by ancient sources. It is, however, a fact that, according to Herodotus, this area had been dedicated to the Nereids and, in particular, to Thetis, who, in Greek mythology, had been abducted at this particular spot, by the mortal Peleus.

This marriage may signify the subjugation of the coastal areas to the political-military powers of the mainland or may, simply, be a poetic symbolism of the passionate relationship between land, represented by Peleus, and sea, where the Nereids rule, as Homer lyrically describes. Could the inferred ancient temple at Theotokos be a Nereid worship center, in ancient Sepias?"

Personal Account

As mentioned earlier, I have visited Theotokos on several occasions, as I find the place truly fascinating. I love the two small streams that harbor a wide variety of colorful dragonflies; I like the rocks that litter the shore with their unusual shapes; but most of all, I am captivated by the ruins and the secrets they guard with diligence.

Each time you visit Theotokos, you are likely to be astonished by a new intriguing find. Last time I was there, in the summer of 2003, I decided to explore the ruins of the Byzantine basilica, as I have done so many times before. As soon as I entered the church's perimeter, I happened on a freshly excavated patch of sand. And there, right before my eyes, stood part of a beautiful tessellated floor, constructed of colored pebbles. Despite its primitiveness, the artwork was truly marvelous and the two gravel partridges seemed eager to fly into the wide blue yonder, seemingly oblivious to the damage inflicted on their pebbly "plumage" by the elements.

I will revisit Theotokos in the near future and will keep you posted on any fresh archaeological finds!

Directions

If you're in Volos or Argalasti, take the main road to Trikeri. About 2 km (1.3 miles) from Argalasti's main square, you'll reach a very distinctive intersection with two branches at 90-degree angles to the road you're on. Beware, because your brain will more than likely short-circuit owing to the sudden influx of information - there are over 30 signs posted right in front you, pointing to literally every apartment for rent within a radius of 20 km (12.5 miles) or more. Take a deep breath, concentrate, swing a left and head towards Metochi.

If you're in Horto, you'll need to reach the same intersection. It's approximately 5 km (3 miles) uphill, on the road to Argalasti. Alternatively, you can head towards Milina and follow the road adjoining the church, which leads to Lafkos. The drive is some 4 km (2.5 miles) shorter, but the road has many sharp bends and you'll miss the great view.

Drive through Metochi and Lafkos. Approx. 7.5 km (4.5 miles) from the intersection, the road bifurcates anew. Take the left branch, towards Promyri and Platanias. Keep going forward towards Promyri for about 5 km (3 miles). Just before you enter the village, take a left at the steeply ascending U-shaped turn and follow the road for another 10 km (6.25 miles) or so, at which point you should reach the village of Lyri.

Keep driving for another 1.5 km (approx. 1 mile) and you should see a light blue sign, with white lettering, pointing towards Theotokos.

To get a better understanding of the area, check out the associated map.